High in the alps

150 years of the Glocknerhaus

Station 1: The story of the Glocknerhaus

Exploration, new beginnings and responsibility in the high mountains: the Glocknerhaus tells a story of pioneering spirit, the development of tourism and the challenge of preserving a historic building in an extreme location for the future.

A building bridging the Imperial era and the present day

The Klagenfurt section of the Österreichischer Alpenverein, founded in 1872, decided as early as 1873 to build a reliable shelter for mountaineers and hikers at Bretterboden, near the Pasterze. The land was purchased in 1874, and the design by architect Adolf Stipperger was ultimately financed through individual donations, imperial support and a specially organised lottery. On 17 August 1876, the Glocknerhaus was officially opened. Overnight, tourism in the Carinthian part of the Alps increased. The Glocknerhaus soon outgrew its humble beginnings. The rapidly rising visitor numbers – 1,520 guests by 1881 – made a first major extension necessary in 1885/86. Outbuildings for mountain guides and domestic purposes were constructed, and a water supply and telephone connection turned the house into a genuine base in the high mountains. In 1893, the Alpenverein Klagenfurt decided to build a road up to the house, with constructions beginning in 1900. This route was the starting point of the later Großglockner High Alpine Road, whose legendary 48 kilometres with 36 hairpin bends were opened in 1935. This made the Glocknerhaus accessible to travellers from all over Europe. Both world wars left their mark: the Glocknerhaus was requisitioned by the military in 1914 and used as a high-altitude training centre by British occupation forces in 1945. On each occasion, it was successfully revived as a place of hospitality following years of hardship. The 100th anniversary in 1976 reaffirmed the clear commitment: the house remains the property of the Klagenfurt Section. Major refurbishments, solar panels and the comprehensive renovation from 2001 to 2003, featuring the characteristic glass veranda and direct views of the Großglockner, have shaped the building as it stands today. The exposed high-altitude location places constant demands on operations and infrastructure. Extreme weather conditions, a short building season and challenging logistics make ongoing investment essential. Currently we again need to invest into modernisation and refurbishment which are intended to preserve the historic character whilst ensuring contemporary standards.This is a task that the Alpenverein Klagenfurt has been tackling with commitment for 150 years. Open from mid-May to September, the Glocknerhaus is now a starting point for high-altitude treks and glacier hikes to the Pasterze, the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps. It is also a training centre, seminar venue and lively meeting place for nature lovers from all over the world – a place that has been connecting mountains and people for 150 years.

Station 2: The Alpenverein and the network of trails

Around 26,000 kilometres of marked trails and 225 huts form the backbone of the Österreichischer Alpenverein. A total of 193 sections and some 25,000 volunteers ensure the preservation, safety and sustainable development of the Alpine region. Each section and local group bears responsibility for its own Alpine homeland.

Trail markings in Austria

All trails by the Alpenverein in Austria follow a standardised system. The colour on the signpost shows at a glance what to expect and helps you choose the right route for your ability. Mountain trails marked with a blue dot are easier routes, which may be narrow and steep. Mountain trails marked with a red dot are mainly narrow, often steep and may feature sections with risk of falling. There may be short sections where the path is secured. Mountain trails marked with a black dot are narrow, often steep and present a risk of falling. Secured sections are frequent as easy climbing spots that require the use of your hands. Sure-footedness and a head for heights are absolutely essential! Alpine routes lead into open alpine or high-alpine terrain and are not mountain paths in the conventional sense. They may include exposed sections, as well as sections where there is a risk of slipping or falling, and unsecured walking and climbing passages.

Indispensable in the mountains – thousands of volunteers maintain the network of alpine trails for us all, year after year

The Österreichischer Alpenverein maintains 26,000 kilometres of marked mountain trails and 225 mountain huts. This includes the Klagenfurt branch and its local groups: they maintain and secure 500 kilometres of trails through the Carinthian mountains, from gentle valleys to high-alpine terrain, including the area around the Großglockner. Path maintenance is carried out as a matter of duty, taken for granted without needing to be stated. At least once a year, the condition of the paths must be assessed and any damage identified must be repaired to ensure that the paths remain safe to use. Without ongoing maintenance, paths would become overgrown and eroded, footbridges and bridges would become impassable, and safety ropes would become unusable. Major damage leads to closures, frustration among hikers and a great deal of work for volunteers. Uniform yellow signposts indicating destinations and walking times, as well as red-white-red intermediate markings, provide guidance throughout Austria. This standardised system protects and saves lives. Well-maintained and marked trails have been shown to reduce the number of mountain rescue operations and keep hikers on safe, tested routes. However, no guide can replace your own careful preparation for a trip. Information on trail conditions and weather forecasts obtained in advance will determine whether to go ahead with the trip, how to deal with current weather conditions, or whether to abandon the trip. In the high mountains, the weather can change within minutes – thunderstorms, rain, fog and stormy conditions make it difficult to find your way and continue your journey. The Alpine trail network relies on the dedication of many volunteers and the responsible behaviour of every individual. Signposts, markings and safety features provide guidance, but safety is only ensured through proper self-assessment and careful observation of nature’s signs. This caution ensures a safe return. If in doubt, turn back. Because in the mountains, it is not how far you have gone that counts, but that you return home safely.

Station 3: Fauna of the alpine mountains

Life at the limit

The alpine mountains are characterized by short summers, long and harsh winters, extreme temperature fluctuations, strong winds, high UV radiation, short growing seasons, and sudden weather changes. These exceptional conditions pose a constant challenge to all living things. Only highly specialized species with particular adaptations can survive here permanently. Over thousands of years a unique alpine mountain fauna has developed, including species such as the rock ptarmigan and the marmot. The glacier flea is a tiny springtail that feeds on minute algae and can survive on the surface of a glacier. The glacier weaver (Mitopus glacialis) – found only in the high-altitude regions of the Alps – forages for food near glaciers. However, nowadays pressure is increasing on these masters of survival.

Climate change as an existential threat…

Climate change is having a particularly severe impact on the Alpine region. Glaciers are retreating, the snow line is climbing upwards, vegetation zones are shifting, and forests are encroaching further and further into higher altitudes. At the same time, warm-loving species are moving upwards. For high-Alpine specialists, this primarily means a loss of habitat. They are being forced into ever-smaller pockets of habitat – yet moving further up is usually no longer an option.

Extreme climbers under pressure

The chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra) is perfectly adapted to life in the high mountains. Its sharp-edged, elastic hooves with grippy pads, as well as its compact build with powerful, elongated hind legs, enable it to maintain a secure footing, make precise leaps and climb efficiently over steep, rocky terrain. Climate change poses several challenges for the chamois. On the one hand, warmer temperatures are leading to a shortage of high-quality food. Grasses and herbs become harder and more difficult to digest earlier in the season. On the other hand, their habitat is shrinking. Forests are spreading further up the mountains (shifting of the tree line), but the chamois prefers rocky areas with sparse vegetation. Furthermore, the chamois is ill-equipped to cope with prolonged heat. To avoid overheating, it must seek out more shade and reduce its activity to conserve energy. A mild climate also encourages the spread of diseases and parasites, which harm the chamois. Further pressure is caused by the disruption to their habitat caused by winter sports, hiking and mountain biking. If the chamois are repeatedly startled, they expend energy unnecessarily. Particularly in winter, this can be life-threatening as their reserves are low.

The golden eagle – king of the skies

The golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) is considered the largest and most imposing bird of prey in the Alpine region. With a wingspan of up to 2.5 metres, it uses thermals and updrafts to circle for hours over open slopes, mountain pastures and scree slopes. As it does so, it keeps a sharp lookout for prey such as rock ptarmigans, marmots, young hares and young chamois. Its eyesight is many times better than that of humans, enabling it to detect the slightest movements from great heights. They require large, undisturbed hunting grounds. Golden eagles nest in inaccessible cliffs. Within a territory, they usually use several nesting sites, which they change each year. Golden eagle couples are monogamous and frequently stay together for many years. Climate change affects the golden eagle indirectly: Changes in the alpine mountains are reducing the numbers of its prey, such as the rock ptarmigan and the marmot. The disappearance of open hunting grounds and human disturbance are also harming the birds. Fewer chicks are being hatched, and the birds are less likely to seek out new territories.

Cold climate animals in snow emergency

The rock ptarmigan (Lagopus muta) inhabits open, treeless areas above the tree line and is perfectly adapted to extreme cold, wind and long periods of snow. Its fully feathered feet and toes prevent it from sinking into the snow and make it easier to move around on soft ground. Its nostrils are also feathered. The Alpine ptarmigan’s plumage is speckled brown and grey in summer, allowing it to blend in well amongst rocks and loose gravel. In winter, its snow-white plumage makes it almost impossible to spot in the snow. Challenges due to climate change … For the rock ptarmigan, shorter winters with little snow are particularly problematic. Without a continuous snow cover, the bird becomes suddenly highly visible to predators in its white winter plumage. At the same time, its habitat is shrinking as warm-loving species move in. Moving to higher altitudes is virtually impossible.

Hibernators without winter

Alpine marmots (Marmota marmota) inhabit subalpine and alpine grasslands above the tree line. They live in stable family groups and hibernate together between October and the end of April in burrows they have dug themselves, deep under the snow cover. The body heat of the older animals helps the young to survive. The short summer months are spent almost entirely on feeding, building up fat reserves and socialising. Lookouts keep watch over the group, and in the event of danger, characteristic whistles warn the others. Thread due to the climate change…Rising temperatures and shorter winter periods are disrupting the depth and duration of hibernation. Frequent waking leads to increased energy consumption, causing fat reserves to be depleted sooner. At the same time, the insulating snow cover is thinning, which increases the risk of cold-related injuries and frostbite. Furthermore, the encroachment of scrub onto formerly open alpine pastures is reducing the amount of suitable grazing land. Further pressure caused by humas…In addition, the intensive recreational use of the Alps by humans acts as a disruptive factor. Repeated disturbance during the summer months reduces the time available for feeding and building up fat reserves. This can significantly impair survival during the following winter.

Station 4: Glaciers – Eternal Ice?

Glacial ice is created from snow that is compressed into ice by its own weight. 80 centimetres of fresh snow produces 1 centimetre of glacial ice. Once enough ice has accumulated, it begins to flow down the slope like a very slow river: a glacier has formed. Glaciers are highly sensitive to climate change. During warmer climate periods, they melt away over decades. During colder climate periods, they grow. The Pasterze is (still) Austria’s largest glacier, currently measuring 7.5 km in length. It is situated at the foot of the Großglockner, which, at 3,798 m above sea level, is Austria’s highest mountain. Since 1850, however, the Pasterze has lost two-thirds of its ice mass. A clear sign of current climate change. The glacier’s former extent can be seen from moraine walls. These consist of sand and debris that accumulate, for example, at the edge of the glacier tongue and remain behind after the glacier has retreated. Beneath the surface, the glacier leaves hollow shapes that fill with water once the ice has melted.

Why glaciers are important

Glaciers are among the most important reservoirs of fresh water – and we need this fresh water not only for drinking, but also for agriculture and energy production. Around 70% of the world’s fresh water is stored in glaciers. Throughout winter, mountain glaciers store freshwater in the form of snow and ice, which is subsequently transported to lower altitudes as meltwater. Even in dry years, they replenish rivers and underground drinking water reservoirs. Hydropower stations can rely on these flow rates. When snowmelt runs dry, rivers and alpine valleys drain during summers with little rain. The water table drops, and water shortages occur even at lower altitudes! The consistent generation of energy in hydroelectric power stations can no longer be guaranteed. Glacier melt is causing sea levels to rise worldwide, putting people and wildlife along coastlines at risk. A little-known consequence is the salinisation of drinking water in these regions – a threat to millions of people. According to the latest studies, the total area of all glaciers in the Alps has halved since 1850!

The Pasterze and the climate

During the Würm Glacial (starting 115,000 years ago), almost the entire Alps were covered by ice sheets. The Drau Glacier stretched from the Hohe Tauern to Griffen. Only a few mountain peaks, such as the Großglockner and the Dobratsch, rose above the ice. Klagenfurt was buried under a 600-metre-thick ice sheet. Towards the end of this glacial period around 20,000 years ago, the climate got warmer gradually and the ice sheets started to melt. By the start of the current interglacial period around 12,000 years ago, the glaciers had retreated to high-altitude areas such as the Großglockner. However, the regional climate has been inconsistent since then. Changes in solar radiation and extreme geological events caused alternations of warmer and colder periods with temperature differences of around 1 degree compared to today. Evidence of warmer periods includes finds of peat, wood remains and, occasionally, entire tree trunks. These are released from the ice as the Pasterze glacier melts. Dating of the wood remains reveals the age of these trees and thus the periods during which the Pasterze Valley was forested. Swiss stone pine wood is frequently found. It grows in the barren environment of high mountain ridges and on rugged rocky slopes at altitudes between 1,500 and 2,700 metres, where it can reach an age of up to 400 years. Its adaptation to the harsh mountain climate makes the Swiss stone pine an indicator of the upper tree line. If the tree line rises due to rising temperatures, the Swiss stone pine will also migrate to higher mountain elevations. If glaciers push forward due to falling global temperatures, they will overrun the existing forests. The oldest tree remains found to date in the Pasterze Glacier date from a warm period around 9,000 years ago, when the Pasterze Valley was marshland and sparsely covered with forrest. Around 8,000 to 6,000 years ago, a slight change in the Earth’s orbit led to increased solar radiation. This is known as the Holocene Climatic Optimum. The warm temperatures encouraged humans to settle down. A Swiss stone pine trunk from this period, discovered in 2014, has been dated to over 6,000 years ago. Between 6,000 and 4,000 years ago, it was probably cooler. The extent of the Pasterze glacier is unknown, but probably it was smaller than in 1850. During the Roman Climatic Optimum and the Medieval Warm Period, it was so warm in Europe that even wine could be grown in England. At that time, there was only minimal volcanic and solar activity. In 1952, a Swiss stone pine trunk was found in the foothills of the Pasterze that had grown between 1265 and 1595. The tree line was therefore higher than it is today. During the subsequent Little Ice Age, the Pasterze glacier expanded. By 1850, it had reached its greatest extent since the end of the Ice Age, stretching 11.4 km to the start of the Möll Gorge. However, since 1850 the global climate is rising steadily. Today’s global temperatures, based on a 10-year average, already exceed all post-glacial values. The Pasterze has already shrunk to a third of its 1850 volume, with a difference in elevation of more than 300 metres. As climate change progresses, the Pasterze Valley could become forested again in the future.